How Kyo-Yuzen is made
Kyo-Yuzen is one of the three major Yuzen in Japan, along with Kaga-Yuzen and Edo-Yuzen, and is a dyeing product including kimono using a dyeing technique called Yuzen-dyeing. It goes through various processes before completion, which differ slightly depending on the dyeing method and patterns. How is the pattern used for Wa-Denim completed? Here, we will briefly explain part of the dyeing process adopted for Wa-Denim.
Process #1 Zuan（Design painting）
Process of developing the design.
We create a design that will add a new feel to our jeans while taking advantage of the traditional attractions of Kyo-Yuzen.
Process #2 Katagami-Chokoku(Carving)
A mold is carved according to the drawn pattern. Since one mold is needed for each color, it is necessary to make as many molds as the number of colors to be used. Four patterns are used to dye for Wa-Denim.
Process #3 Jibari(Setting)
The white fabric is glued to a single piece of wood that will serve as the workbench. It is important to apply it straightly so that there will be no misalignment when matching the patterns.
Process #4 Kataoki(Patterned Dyeing)
The mold is placed on the fabric, and the dye is applied to the carved-out areas of the mold by spreading a mixture of glue and dye with a spatula. By repeating this process as many times as the number of molds, a beautiful pattern is created.
Process #5 Norihuse(Gluing)
Glue is applied to the area where the dye adheres to the mold. This glue serves as a dye-proofing agent.
Process #6 Hiki-Zome(Brush dyeing)
Glue is applied to the area where the dye adheres to the mold. This glue serves as a dye-proofing agent.
The area that has not been glued down is dyed with a brush.
Black and blue Kyo-Yuzen fabrics for Wa-Denim are dyed with Hiki-Zome.
Process #7 Mushi(Steaming)
High-temperature steam is applied to the fabric so that the dye will fix into the fabric. In order to fix the colors firmly, the fabric is usually steamed in a steamer box at 100℃ or higher for 30～40 minutes, but the time and temperature of the steam application must be adjusted according to the temperature and humidity of the day. The degree of "steaming" is an important point that determines the color of the Yuzen, and is one of the skills of the craftsman.
Process #8 Suisen / Yunoshi（Washing / Rinsing）
The glue and unnecessary dyes are washed away with 16°C or lower water. After that, the fabric is rinsed in hot water to adjust the width and remove small wrinkles.
Process #9 Shiagekako(Adjustments and Processing)
The finished dyed fabric is inspected for any unevenness in the dye and is modified accordingly.
During this process, we apply a water-repellent finish to the Kyo-Yuzen we use for Wa-Denim to prevent any color transfer when the denim is washed.
Yoshie Dyeing Factory
The Kimono fabric dyeing factory we work with for Wa-Denim
Founded over 60 years ago, Yoshie Dyeing Factory manufacture and sell Kimono.
In addition to Kata Yuzen (patterned yuzen) and hikizome (brush-dyeing), Yoshie also handles hand-inserted Yuzen. Yoshie has a system that allows for integrated in-house production of all Yuzen dyeing processes, which are generally carried out under a division of labor system. *Currently, the steaming process is outsourced. Taking advantage of the techniques that enables a wide variety of dyeing, in recent years, Yoshie has been undertaking "re-dyeing" work directly from consumers as well as wholesalers.
